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>> No. 2934 Anonymous
6th June 2021
Sunday 3:54 pm
2934 spacer
Shedlads, I'm out of my depth.
I need to glue some perspex parts together, so was looking at some acrylic cement to get a strong, airtight join.
But I wonder, will poly cement do the same job? I already have loads of that from my little toy soldiers. I don't have any spare material to test it on annoyingly.
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>> No. 2935 Anonymous
6th June 2021
Sunday 5:42 pm
2935 spacer

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You'll need a proper acrylic cement, unless you don't mind the glue causing the perspex to get cloudy. Otherwise you could use superglue to do the job. Poly cement won't do it though.

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>> No. 2928 Anonymous
23rd May 2021
Sunday 11:19 am
2928 spacer
Just picked these up.

Is the saw salvageable?
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>> No. 2929 Anonymous
23rd May 2021
Sunday 11:24 am
2929 spacer
>>2928
Depending on what condition the teeth are in, you could probably polish the rust off and it'll cut soft wood, but I doubt it's worth it. A £10 saw from B&Q will be way better.
>> No. 2930 Anonymous
23rd May 2021
Sunday 11:32 am
2930 spacer
>>2928
It should come up a treat if you replace the blade and handle.
>> No. 2931 Anonymous
23rd May 2021
Sunday 12:22 pm
2931 spacer
If the teeth are sharp and straight then absolutely. If they're not then still probably.

There's loads of lads on youtube who restore tools, they're a lovely watch, but it's definitely more of a passion project than an objectively good idea when it comes to replacable tools with no sentimental value.
>> No. 2932 Anonymous
23rd May 2021
Sunday 1:08 pm
2932 spacer
It's too rusted for the teeth to be sharp. Saws are sharpenable, but it's not something I'd suggest tackling unless you've got a reasonable amount of experience with sharpening chisels and plane blades. Probably not worth the effort TBH. The rest should come up fine with a bit of elbow grease.
>> No. 2933 Anonymous
23rd May 2021
Sunday 1:13 pm
2933 spacer
>>2928
White vinegar and some scrubbing - maybe oil/replace some handles. Nice little haul.

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>> No. 2919 Anonymous
14th May 2021
Friday 2:11 pm
2919 Sit-to-stand desk adjustments
I quite like the position and height of my desk but would like to stand sometimes, so I thought a sit-to-stand solution would be ideal. These can run a bit expensive, though, like the pictured for about 400 GBP.

Do you lads have any good cheap options or DIY solutions for this?
3 posts omitted. Expand all images.
>> No. 2923 Anonymous
14th May 2021
Friday 6:03 pm
2923 spacer
>>2922
Please take photos of your progress, and assemble them into a slide show on youtube, accompanied by a Kevin McCleod song.
>> No. 2924 Anonymous
14th May 2021
Friday 6:10 pm
2924 spacer
>>2923

I honestly can't tell whether this is some sort of cliché I should avoid or a sincere and highly specific request.

I will do my best.
>> No. 2925 Anonymous
14th May 2021
Friday 7:10 pm
2925 spacer
>>2920
>The option that I've found to be most effective though, is a stack of leather-bound encyclopaedias.
Be sure to whipe the dust off them from time to time, aey?

>>2922
Go for it man. I've been considering the same lately. The best i can come up with involves a lot of wooden pegs.
>> No. 2926 Anonymous
14th May 2021
Friday 7:22 pm
2926 spacer
>>2924
I'm not sure how it's termed, but a bit of frantic googling to make sure it wasn't something I just dreamt up lead me to these:



>> No. 2927 Anonymous
14th May 2021
Friday 7:38 pm
2927 spacer

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>>2926
That first video is wonderful. How would you sink the beams, simply dig them in a foot, with preservative to resist rotting? Would a metal cap or spike be necessary?

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>> No. 2916 Anonymous
19th April 2021
Monday 4:10 pm
2916 Mosquito Proofing
Mosquito season is nearly upon us and I refuse to be eaten alive like last year. Do either of you have any tips to keep them at bay?

Reason I ask on a glue board is that I've looked into netting for the window on my flat
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mosquito-Windows-EXTSUD-Netting-Magnetic/dp/B088JZMLYF/ref=sr_1_5?crid=10V18DM7ZWL4B&dchild=1&keywords=mosquito+net+for+windows&qid=1618844061&sprefix=mosquito+%2Caps%2C832&sr=8-5&pldnSite=1

These make use of adhesive magnets but I wonder if that is going to leave marks which is an issue as I'm renting. Any past experience using these or ways of avoiding permanent marks from adhesives would be appreciated.
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>> No. 2917 Anonymous
19th April 2021
Monday 5:07 pm
2917 spacer
uPVC has reasonably good chemical resistance, so you can use white vinegar, isopropanol or even dilute acetone to remove any adhesive residues from window frames. If you need to stick anything to a painted surface, use 3M Command Strips.
>> No. 2918 Anonymous
19th April 2021
Monday 10:53 pm
2918 spacer
>>2917
>If you need to stick anything to a painted surface, use 3M Command Strips

This would be the case, painted wood you see. Although I'm not sure 3M have what it takes as it'll need to hold magnets, mesh and metal bits over a 52 x 38 space. I use the hooks internally but for a window that could create some force if the winds is pushing at the mesh.

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>> No. 2898 Anonymous
9th April 2021
Friday 12:47 am
2898 spacer
So toilet seat detached itself. What kind of tool do I need to reattach it? It's some weird ass huge plastic screws.
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>> No. 2903 Anonymous
9th April 2021
Friday 5:27 am
2903 spacer
>>2898
Check to see if you can see where those bits come out underneath. If you can, get the cheapest thing that'll fit the spacing. If you can't, then you have a top fixing which means you'll need to shop around to find a suitable seat.

Though if you're renting, then it's likely wear and tear which means it's on your landlord to fix it.
>> No. 2904 Anonymous
9th April 2021
Friday 9:19 am
2904 spacer
When this happened to mine there were big plastic thumbscrews on the underside that were fused closed through age/piss and they had to be undone with pliers which managed to chip a sharp piece off the porcelain which fucked my thumb up. Hopefully that knowledge helps.

>>2902
It's not unreasonable to intend to clean it once it's apart so you can get into all the inaccessible places.
>> No. 2905 Anonymous
9th April 2021
Friday 9:49 am
2905 spacer
>>2898
We know you have a 'weird ass', that's obviously why it detached, but let's concentrate on the problem at hand please.
>> No. 2906 Anonymous
9th April 2021
Friday 7:30 pm
2906 spacer
>>2898
Looks like the screws that hold it on are still in place, the seats just broke off completely.
As others have said get a new one, and it's probably just done up with thumbscrews underneath.
>> No. 2914 Anonymous
11th April 2021
Sunday 1:43 am
2914 spacer
>>2899

Thanks. Cleaned it up, got the cheapest one from Argos, and it works just fine now.

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>> No. 2907 Anonymous
10th April 2021
Saturday 7:12 pm
2907 spacer
What's the heat and water tolerance of your typical bit of hardened Polyfilla / generic brand spackle?

Could it survive regular exposure to hot water?
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>> No. 2910 Anonymous
10th April 2021
Saturday 8:55 pm
2910 spacer
>>2909
I kept some dried polymer clay in water or possibly oil for a few years and it swelled up, went soft, fell apart.
>> No. 2911 Anonymous
10th April 2021
Saturday 9:19 pm
2911 spacer
There is an exterior grade of polyfilla that might be worth a try. Waterproof, think its based on cement, or cement+resin.
>> No. 2912 Anonymous
10th April 2021
Saturday 9:23 pm
2912 spacer
>>2910

Properly cured polymer clay is basically PVC, which has excellent water resistance but relatively poor resistance to oils. In the uncured or partially-cured state there'll be a lot of filler material and unbound plasticisers that aren't necessarily stable in water.
>> No. 2913 Anonymous
10th April 2021
Saturday 9:41 pm
2913 spacer
Thanks lads. I've double checked and my generic brand stuff is actually "plastic putty". It came with a hardening agent and the label claims it's water resistant. It's also hardened like rock, so I'm happy enough.

I'll let you all know if it melts in about two years time.
>> No. 2915 Anonymous
17th April 2021
Saturday 9:45 am
2915 spacer

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OP here an update: the plastic putty absolutely did not withstand exposure to regular warm water, and despite hardening like a rock, softened and came away in bits.

I've now been arsed to go to the shop and buy a proper waterproof glue and a caulking gun.

Lesson learned, don't be lazy when it comes to water and heat tolerance.

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>> No. 2892 Anonymous
16th February 2021
Tuesday 11:42 am
2892 spacer
Will a 7.5W LED bulb in a 7W lamp/fixture cause problems?

The difference is small but I don't want to start a housefire.
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>> No. 2893 Anonymous
16th February 2021
Tuesday 12:14 pm
2893 spacer
>>2892
It will be fine.
>> No. 2894 Anonymous
16th February 2021
Tuesday 4:13 pm
2894 spacer

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>> No. 2895 Anonymous
16th February 2021
Tuesday 5:42 pm
2895 spacer
>>2894

The house was already on fire before replacing the bulb so it would appear that it is in fact fine according to the logic of this comic.
>> No. 2896 Anonymous
16th February 2021
Tuesday 5:43 pm
2896 spacer
Lamp fitting wattages used to be important in the days of incandescent bulbs which put out a shitton of heat. If you put a 100w bulb in a 60w lamp, it would get very toasty in there and possibly melt or catch fire.

With LEDs its a bit more complicated. If you've got a lamp with a separate transformer putting out 12vdc, going over the W rating could end up burning out the transformer.

But I'm guessing this is probably a mains powered lamp you've got, in which case it's hard to give a good answer as the efficiency and heat output of different types of LED bulbs varies hugely. I would say that as long as the lamp is fairly open with space for air to circulate around the bulb then there should be no problem with it.

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>> No. 2878 Anonymous
13th February 2021
Saturday 1:54 pm
2878 spacer
I want to make an electronic switch to turn another 9V current on and off. What components do I need?
7 posts omitted. Expand all images.
>> No. 2886 Anonymous
13th February 2021
Saturday 9:41 pm
2886 spacer
>>2881
Watch battery won't run a relay (for very long, or at all). MOSFET or just putting your switch in the right place are sensible options.
That's assuming you're not just copying stuff from t'other place for some demented reason.
>> No. 2888 Anonymous
14th February 2021
Sunday 7:13 pm
2888 spacer

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If you're the lad from >>2882 then this should work.
But before you go modding the doorbell check the button isn't knackered and that the connections aren't loose or corroded.
>> No. 2889 Anonymous
14th February 2021
Sunday 9:38 pm
2889 spacer
Why would you take the switch connection from the low (switched) side of the solenoid? Are you trying to build an oscillator this way, to make the bell ring?
Rule 3 of electronics: Amplifiers oscillate, oscillators don't.
At least be prepared to put a capacitor between B & E , and even then, be prepared for the bastard thing to just fins a bias point and sit there burning power in the transistor until it fails.
>> No. 2890 Anonymous
15th February 2021
Monday 2:41 am
2890 spacer
>>2889
Because it's less of a pain in the arse to wire it that way when you take into account the physical construction of the doorbell and the existing wiring, and because it's a doorbell not a finely tuned SMPS.
Even if there's enough capacitative coupling in the cable to cause it to oscillate it should act as a charge pump via the B->E junction of Q1 until the base voltage gets pushed far enough below the switch on threshold to kill any oscillations.

sage because the proper answer is to replace the button and/or cable rather than mod the doorbell to work for a bit longer with failing wiring.
>> No. 2891 Anonymous
15th February 2021
Monday 5:23 pm
2891 spacer

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>>2890
The joy of electronics is that it doesn't give a damn if you're trying to build something trivial, the same rules still apply.
I think you should reduce R1 (possibly to zero), or you'll be pissing away volts across, and power into, the transistor. You want the transistor on hard. As it turns on, the voltage available through the switch will drop, as more volts appear across L1. No need for a current limiting resistor on the base, by the time the transistor is on enough to pull the bottom of the inductor to 0.6V or so, it'll all self-limit.
Bear in mind also that 9V batteries are shit. Alkalines start out at 10Ohms, end up at 1K. Make sure your doorbell solenoid won't just drain it in a couple of uses. A battery holder with 6 C cells has vastly better performance if you can find the space. (or 4 C cells, given that the pp3 will be wilting pretty much from the start).

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>> No. 2873 Anonymous
12th February 2021
Friday 6:06 pm
2873 spacer
When carrying some furniture through to the garden, I left a ding in my stainless steel fridge-freezer door just a few mm in diameter. My girlfriend says no sane person would notice it and not to worry, but I hate causing damage and not at least trying to fix it, and it is visible from a very low angle. I'd estimate it to be 3mm - 5mm and not maybe 1mm depth at the deepest point.

What could pull out a tiny dent like this? The other side isn't accessible to pop it out. I have a feeling a standard toilet plunger would be too large to target the dent.

Would heat work, with the consideration that there's a freezer going on the other side?

I'd obviously prefer not to spend money on an expensive gizmo or cause more damage.
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>> No. 2874 Anonymous
12th February 2021
Friday 6:09 pm
2874 spacer

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>a standard toilet plunger would be too large
Glue a cocktail stick to one of these jumping toy things.
>> No. 2875 Anonymous
12th February 2021
Friday 7:01 pm
2875 spacer
Small dents like that are really tricky to pull, because there's less surface area and more plastic deformation. Your best chance is with a PDR tool (about a tenner from AliExpress). You could try just buying the puller tabs and yanking on it with a pair of pliers, which should only cost you a couple of quid.
>> No. 2876 Anonymous
12th February 2021
Friday 9:20 pm
2876 spacer
Hot melt glue a stick to it. Pull and wiggle.
There's only a 50% chance you'll make it worse.
>> No. 2877 Anonymous
13th February 2021
Saturday 12:58 pm
2877 spacer
>>2875

Thanks, I picked up a PDR tool and might try a bit of heating and cooling first for a wiggle, as well. I'll report back the result if I remember.

I'll take >>2876 as an emergency backup option, and >>2874 as something to do if I ever find myself bored and on a desert island with these exact items and a sheet of dented steel.
>> No. 2887 Anonymous
13th February 2021
Saturday 9:44 pm
2887 spacer
>>2874
for what it's worth, don't stick these to your forehead unless you want a perfectly round hickey. Same goes for halved tennis balls. Younger me was daft.

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>> No. 2864 Anonymous
10th February 2021
Wednesday 6:27 pm
2864 spacer
Lads. Something happened to two of the carpet tiles in my current flat, and I'd like to replace them rather than lose my deposit. I carefully took one up and found no manufacturer identification, just the number '50718' printed on the back. Googling "50718" "carpet tile" gets me sweet fuck all.

I'd rather not alert the landlord of this, so before I go asking for new carpet tiles from them, can anyone help me ID this?

Thanks lads. Thads.
3 posts omitted. Expand all images.
>> No. 2868 Anonymous
10th February 2021
Wednesday 8:58 pm
2868 spacer
>Something happened to two of the carpet tiles in my current flat,

Care to elaborate?
>> No. 2869 Anonymous
10th February 2021
Wednesday 9:28 pm
2869 spacer
>>2868
I don't know exactly, but my best guess is my office chair wheel got stuck and tore a chunk of the threading out. Either way, there's inch-wide black patch of missing carpet. Unfotunately that was right on the boundary of two tiles.
>> No. 2870 Anonymous
10th February 2021
Wednesday 9:39 pm
2870 spacer
>>2869
Fair enough. To be honest I think I was hoping for some sort of amusing and elaborate wanking/shitting/murder incident or something. I hope you get it sorted anyways ladm8.
>> No. 2871 Anonymous
10th February 2021
Wednesday 9:47 pm
2871 spacer
>>2870
My bad. I realise on second reading that my OP makes it sound quite intriguing when in reality it was just because I don't know what happened.
>> No. 2872 Anonymous
10th February 2021
Wednesday 10:08 pm
2872 spacer
>>2870
I was imagining he had set them on fire.

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>> No. 2845 Anonymous
29th January 2021
Friday 12:47 pm
2845 spacer
I'm interested in buying this but it says it must be fixed to the wall, no fittings included.

How dangerous would it be without being fixed to the wall?
How would I fix it the wall?

https://www.aldi.co.uk/workzone-4-tier-resin-shelving/p/803362435518400
13 posts and 2 images omitted. Expand all images.
>> No. 2859 Anonymous
29th January 2021
Friday 8:54 pm
2859 spacer
>>2858

>I haven't used the Gripit fixings, but they do look reasonably foolproof to be fair.

I would say they are, but I have loads of DIY experience so it's hard to really be sure. The stud is always, always a better option, particularly with a desk. The bigger Gripits (blue) can hold 120kgish per fixing, but I still wouldn't be sure what would happen if you sat on a desk held up by them, there's leverage then. Or shagged on it, I don't know what otherlad does.
>> No. 2860 Anonymous
31st January 2021
Sunday 12:17 am
2860 spacer
The desk weighs 19kg lads, I can barely lift it myself - I'm just not confident of the plasterboard wall taking the weight regardless of the fixing. I'll investigate finding the studs (joists?) with magnets.
>> No. 2861 Anonymous
31st January 2021
Sunday 12:50 am
2861 spacer
>>2860

They definitely would hold, but I do understand your scepticism. The stud is always the first port of call, regardless.
>> No. 2862 Anonymous
31st January 2021
Sunday 1:52 am
2862 spacer
It must be fixed to a sturdy wall (not just screwed into dry wall without anchors) if you want it to be solid, but if can be sure no toddler will try to climb it and you follow above given advice about heavy at the bottom, light at the top you'll be ok. Pretend its Jenga and the damn thing wants to topple over, basically.

Also bear in mind that, when fixed to a wall, there'll be little flex in the structure. When that's absent, it can flex however it wants. Even if you keep your lead bar collection on the bottom shelf, you still can't use the top shelf to store heavy things because the structure is a bit flimsy.
>> No. 2863 Anonymous
31st January 2021
Sunday 1:31 pm
2863 spacer
This thread is making me wonder why you don't just buy a cheap flatpack. A steel and plastic combo would likely be more sturdy than what you're looking at, and can be found for a tenner (without delivery): https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/hyllis-shelving-unit-in-outdoor-00278578/

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>> No. 2835 Anonymous
21st January 2021
Thursday 12:41 pm
2835 spacer
What's the trick to getting a bedframe that won't fall to bits after a few years? I'm quite 'heavy arsed' and a giant so breaking beds is something I do. Low-beds are maybe one solution but there are a host of reasons why people don't sleep on the floor.

I'm specifically annoyed with the problems slats can give. Big Bear knows full well that slats break, bend or, in the case of metal, will just come off the frame.
4 posts omitted. Expand all images.
>> No. 2840 Anonymous
21st January 2021
Thursday 3:18 pm
2840 spacer
>>2839
PotY nominee.
>> No. 2841 Anonymous
21st January 2021
Thursday 11:09 pm
2841 spacer
It doesn't have to be nearly a grand as >>2838 mentions, but a good bed costs money. You can build your own if you're handy around wood, but if you're buying one anything which comes as a kit with fancy nuts and bolts to screw it together is, very likely, a bunch of tosh. The metal frame shown in the picture, for example, looks exactly like the kind of trim you find on a tube framed bit of cheapo nonesense.

If you don't want to go DIY, find a (semi-)local bed maker and get something that's made of squares and screws together with plain wood screws. Then apply >>2839 and reinforce it; the entire bed should, if at all, move and flex as a single unit. Any play in the component parts will get stressed incessantly as you toss and turn during sleep. When reinforcing, bear in mind that you put more pressure on the bed around your hips and mid-torso than your head or feet both when sleeping in it and when falling into bed or sitting down/up on it, so the centre area is particularly important to reinforce.

I'm no Big Bear at *mumble* over 15st, but even I learned that slats are wear parts. It does depend on your mattress and how well it spreads your weight across them but having a half dozen or so spare at all times is a god sent. Check your bed every 3 months or so to replace slats that appear less than perfect. You can even do a rotation, move slats from near the end of your bed towards the centre and get some more use out of the centre ones near your feet for example.
>> No. 2842 Anonymous
22nd January 2021
Friday 8:19 am
2842 spacer
Just get a hammock.
>> No. 2843 Anonymous
22nd January 2021
Friday 1:40 pm
2843 spacer
>>2842
Or a waterbed. I have bloody lovely memories of staying over on a waterbed years ago, and prices seem to have dropped since I wanted one but couldn't possibly afford it. Or maybe I'm just less strapped. Either way, go try a waterbed.
>> No. 2844 Anonymous
22nd January 2021
Friday 5:18 pm
2844 spacer
>>2843

What do you do when you have to move a waterbed? Like run a hose into a bath or something? What if the bath is higher up than the bed?

Lots of questions.

Also if a waterbed springs a leak coz you're bouncing around with a fat lass or whatever you're proper fucked.

I remember sleeping on a waterbed when I was a young lad, it was alright I think. Sage for waterbed fraff chat.

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>> No. 2827 Anonymous
16th November 2020
Monday 11:38 pm
2827 spacer
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives

What's the best type of screw drive? In a perfect world, what would be the most common type?

Slotted, Philips, and Pozidrive are all obviously shite. Hex isn't great either. Square/Robertson heads seem like the best bet to me.
2 posts omitted. Expand all images.
>> No. 2830 Anonymous
17th November 2020
Tuesday 1:52 am
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Torx is close to mathematically optimal. The only real down-side is that a) it's quite hard to distinguish the sizes by eye and b) it's quite easy to chew up a screw head by using an under-sized bit. It's perfect for manufacturing, but slightly annoying during servicing and repair.

I've probably had the least grief with internal hex, but it's not suitable for a lot of applications due to size constraints. External hex is still probably the best option for tough environments subject to abrasion or corrosion, but those buggers owe me a lot of knuckle skin.

"Cross-head" is an absolute shit-show, because there are so many almost-compatible standards.

Pentalobe can fuck off. Tri-point can fuck off, come back and then fuck off again.

My favourite is the Pitlock, which is the only removable security bolt I've used that is actually secure. Totally niche, but invaluable if you need it.
>> No. 2831 Anonymous
17th November 2020
Tuesday 2:46 am
2831 spacer
>>2827
Naruto really went too far with the whole Sharingan business
>> No. 2832 Anonymous
17th November 2020
Tuesday 5:46 am
2832 spacer
Internal hex for countersunk, external for when you really mean it. Though I think this is just an admission that I prefer bolts, but that's a whole other discussion.

I'll admit I've had limited strife with posidrive, I've rounded maybe two in the last decade, and I interact with them almost daily.

I think we can all agree slotted is a joke - I curse whatever backwards farmer built my house every time I find one.
>> No. 2833 Anonymous
17th November 2020
Tuesday 5:50 am
2833 spacer
>>2832

I should qualify that I accept that many other solutions may be technically better, but the availability of specialist bits is a huge letdown for me. You can't really bodge a torx like you can a posi/phillips or slotted, and fiddling with often fragile driver bits is a real turn off - ironically any sort of torque applied through a torx bit will snap the bit easily. Maybe I could just buy more expensive torx bits, but fuck you - I've never once snapped a Philips bit.
>> No. 2834 Anonymous
17th November 2020
Tuesday 8:16 am
2834 spacer
>>2832

>I think we can all agree slotted is a joke - I curse whatever backwards farmer built my house every time I find one.

They're fine if you drive them by hand and you use a proper hollow-ground screwdriver. In any other case they're absolutely fucking awful.

>I've never once snapped a Philips bit

Aye, but I bet you've rounded off plenty of the fuckers. There's a reason why they sell massive bulk boxes of PH2/PZ2 bits.

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>> No. 2823 Anonymous
8th November 2020
Sunday 8:06 pm
2823 Outdoor heating
Any recommendations? I figure NYE may end up being locked down and then there'll be the rest of winter to sit though, may as well invest in something to keep warm out.
I'm open to high tech stuff or some sort of firepit, anything that works.
Expand all images.
>> No. 2824 Anonymous
8th November 2020
Sunday 8:52 pm
2824 spacer
But what about the climate!.
>> No. 2825 Anonymous
8th November 2020
Sunday 8:55 pm
2825 spacer
>>2824
I hear you saying I should nick one from a pub to save on construction costs and to balance out one that would otherwise be running more often.
>> No. 2826 Anonymous
8th November 2020
Sunday 10:04 pm
2826 spacer
In my experience those gas fireplace things work best. You know, like your nan used to have with the three ceramic panels, but on wheels. They kick out more heat than leccy ones and they're not as bad for emissions as just burning wood.

I think they make portable camping ones, I've seen it on that YouTube channel where that madlad Canadian fella sleeps in the back of rental vans for a laugh.

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